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Trend File: The Best of New York Fashion Week Jewelry

Major jewelry moments from Marc Jacobs and more

New York Fashion Week’s Fall 2017 shows wrap up this afternoon, and, looking back, it’s been a terrific week for jewelry.

The fashion world’s passion for earrings—the bigger and bolder the better—held steady in New York, as did the ubiquity of chokers and tassels (used to cap necklaces at Erin Fetherston and in the earrings at Sachin & Babi, to name two).

Classic gold hoop earrings of all sizes, spotted at both Michael Kors and Colovos, felt fresh and—in comparison to much of the design-plus jewelry on the runways—coolly unfettered.

Here are a few of my favorite jewelry moments from the New York shows:

Marc Jacobs’ Ode to Hip-Hop
Fashion designer Marc Jacobs, whose dynamic shows always cause a stir, took it back to the old school for his fall collection, referencing early New York City hip-hop with Kangol-inspired hats, chubby furs, and superchunky gold jewelry—notably waist-length chains and huge bejeweled earrings that nodded to the classic hip-hop door-knocker styles. The collection was inspired by a documentary series called Hip-Hop Evolution—and it did feel like a heartfelt ode. Jacobs wrote in his program notes: “As a born and bred New Yorker, it was during my time at the High School of Art and Design when I began to see and feel the influence of hip-hop on other music as well as art and style. This collection is my representation of the well-studied dressing up of casual sportswear.”

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A gilded key earring at Marc Jacobs (photo courtesy of Instagram/@marcjacobs)

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Chunky chains added to the hip-hop vibes at Marc Jacobs (photo courtesy of Instagram/@marcjacobs).

Proenza Schouler’s Arm Candy
Shiny leathers mingled with fine mesh materials, swoopy peekaboo cutouts, and the brand’s signature urban toughness in a happy mash-up at the fall Proenza Schouler show. But it was the arm candy—tubular coils in cream and black loaded slender arms already hefting geometric gold bangles—that provided jewelry watchers with a real “wow” moment. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who recently announced they will show in Paris next season, create some of the best, boldest jewelry on any runway—remember this jaw-dropping skull necklace from last season? They’re on a roll.

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Totally tubular bracelets added pop to the architecturally cut clothes at Proenza Schouler (photo courtesy of Instagram/@proenzaschouler).

Josie Natori’s Eastern Moment
Designer Josie Natori has grown her intimates brand, which she launched in 1977, into a full-fledged collection in recent years. Her pretty fall presentation was an ode to traditional Asian dress—featuring kimono-style coats, brocade pants, and snappy little black dresses. The gorgeous, supersize earrings her models wore also paid homage to Asian aesthetics—they were utterly elegant, but their size also rendered them quite edgy.

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Elegant, Asian-inspired earrings had a moment at Josie Natori (photo courtesy of Josie Natori).

Tadashi Shoji’s Charming Chokers
All those floor-length romantic gowns at Tadashi Shoji’s fall show were made a smidgen more modern with thin, layered gold chokers—some metal-only and some bejeweled—that were styled smartly. The choker is a holdout from past seasons but—in less urban markets—is just beginning to, well, take hold.

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A gold choker plays off a luxe look at Tadashi Shoji (photo courtesy of Instagram/@tadashishoji).

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Layered gold chokers added edge to the romantic clothes at Tadashi Shoji (photo courtesy of Tadashi Shoji/@tadashishoji).

(Photo at top courtesy of Instagram/@proenzaschouler)